When Tommy Hilfiger chooses a theme, he commits to it. For his Mustique-inspired spring show, he made his own lagoon and recreated the island’s famous watering hole, Basil’s Bar, on set. Pre-fall was inspired by a Twenties trans-Atlantic journey. No boats were chartered, but Hilfiger left no nautical motif at sea. There were cropped, denim sailor pants and cropped Breton striped shirts with sequined admiral badges. A faux fur jacket had an intarsia anchor on it. Flirty tea dresses came in cute sailor-inspired tattoo prints and there were riffs on admiral jackets galore. At times, Hilfiger went overboard on the kitsch factor — there is such a thing as too many stripes — but, for the most part, the elevated execution was a lifesaver (nyuck, nyuck). For example, velvet sailor-pant overalls complete with the traditional shoulder flap of a sailor uniform, should’ve be all wrong, but their slim fit, high waist and cheeky gold trim made them an improbable highlight in the collection.

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