Master of the meaty coat, Phoebe Philo has a knack for making handsome, luxurious clothes that somehow feel like heirlooms rather than retro retreads.

 

There was a strong Seventies undercurrent — and a drop of Jean Muir — to her pre-fall effort that was unveiled back in January during couture. And yet the collection’s devotion to layered, monochromatic dressing in kitchen appliance shades feels fresh three months later when the French house opted to release imagery, on the eve of delivery to Céline boutiques.

 

It takes confidence and height to pull off an enveloping suede or silk tunic, worn over flaring pants and matching boots. Daring, too, are Philo’s mannish, borderline awkward jackets with extrawide shoulders — some rendered in loud, car-salesman plaids.

 

Breezier options include tiered dresses in tiny florals with tie necks, or slouchy pants in fall’s favorite fabric: crushed velvet.

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