Riccardo Tisci’s blockbuster spring collection for Givenchy — paraded exceptionally in New York last Sept. 11 — ignited a lingerie trend now trickling into pre-fall.

 

The designer nimbly maintained ownership of lacy tops and dresses, pajamalike ensembles and bathrobe coats for his own pre-fall effort — the shapes sharpened, the colors darkened.

 

Highlights of this brisk, straightforward collection were hung in Givenchy’s Avenue Montaigne showrooms opposite the men’s pre-fall range, highlighting how fluidly Tisci’s ideas — allover logos, worker denims and necktie prints — traverse genders and seasons.

 

Fetish silhouettes — tuxedo suits, bomber jackets, romantic blouses — were reworked with new and reprised print motifs and couturelike embellishments, including delicate filigree floral embroideries crawling over flight jackets and narrow-shouldered suits.

 

Now entering his second decade at the Paris house, the first marked by plenty of fashion fireworks, Tisci seems poised to now build and articulate the Givenchy wardrobe, segmenting the collection into legible gangs. He also introduced a new concept for his look book: Postcards from edgy cities. First up? Berlin: an austere yet fitting backdrop to showcase the designer’s inimitable blend of maturity and daring.

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