Humberto Leon and Carol Lim distilled a confident, streetwise power woman out of Japanese influences for pre-fall collection that was less gimmicky, more direct and casual than the duo’s work can sometimes skew. The look book featured models in martial arts poses to hammer home the Asian references handled with relative subtlety in the clothes. Rope details, such as little harness worn over red dresses and tops, braided trim on shirtdresses and cartoonish flower prints recalled kimono styles. Some of the constructions brought to mind origami, for example, the thickly pleated shoulders of a sand-colored wool coat. In terms of color, the palette was toned down by Kenzo standards, limited mostly to red, black and white worked in graphic combinations that conveyed a sporty, active mood on loose track pants, long dresses and T-shirts with athletic bands.


Underscoring the commercial nature of this collection, there was indigo denim and an increased bag range, including a new, clean boxy zipped style called “Rizo,” and the folded nylon jacquard “Champ.”

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