Miuccia Prada is never afraid of bold embellishment chez Miu Miu, where, for pre-fall, heavy lace collars were transported from Renaissance portraits to enliven another collection rooted in the Seventies.


Flaring maxi coats were the main statement, in windowpane checks, wide-wale corduroy, antiqued leather or low-pile fur, and in vivid shades of green, purple or rust. Fit-and-flare jackets in the same spirit came teamed with breeches, worn with patterned socks and showy boots, some with furry red heels, perhaps a wink to Louis XIV.


Space-dyed sweaters and knit ponchos and HotPants heightened the retro mood, spiked with quirky jabot blouses, some with frills and crystal collars.


While Prada herself wasn’t in Paris, she staged a trio of shows in her Place Beauvau boutique, the first attended by Raf Simons, who remarked on the suite of long dresses in crushed velvet bearing large-scale floral prints. “Very new for Miu Miu,” he opined.


The Italian brand is to open a new Miu Miu boutique on the Faubourg Saint Honoré this summer.

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