Now that Julien Dossena has established a modernist, athletic-tinged aesthetic at Paco Rabanne, he’s building on it, branding along the way. For pre-fall, he splashed the house logo on foamy T-shirts and sweatshirts and metal mesh miniskirts and dresses. Dossena explored casual luxury through a mix of techno and tribal. Mongolian fur and sporty drawstring details trimmed dresses and skirts. Cocoon coats featured real and faux fur accents, some layered over chunky ribbed knits with Japanese cotton panels that added a workwear vibe.


Dossena expressed his reverence for Rabanne’s heritage, updating the plastic puzzle dress in black and tan leather. “Pacotille” costume jewelry, Rabanne’s play on the French word for “cheap junk,” came in silver metallic flower earrings and rings. It was good to see something new, for the season and for the label in general, in sharp tailoring. Dossena reimagined a black tuxedo as a jumpsuit with baggy legs and a twisted satin stripe. One hopes Dossena will continue channel his energy into more of the now, less of the then, as in Rabanne’s archive.

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