The Paule Ka pre-fall collection marked the debut of new creative director Alithia Spuri-Zampetti, who put forward a strongly defined vision for the label. “I liked the fact that it’s not a loud brand, but instead makes clothes for real women — not for image or the screen,” she said.


She built her collection around elements inspired by the house’s archive: shift dresses, bows, frills, lace, color, peplums, transparency and trompe l’oeil collars that were inspired by the Parisian elegance of a young Catherine Deneuve in “Belle De Jour.”


It made for a collection filled with great contemporary clothes, especially when bows were inserted as trompe l’oeil motifs on black and white skirts, dresses or a soft, colored fur coat. Lace patterns appeared as oversized printed motifs, while real Chantilly lace was used as a delicate underpinning.


Tapping the more graphic elements of Fifties and Sixties couture, Spuri-Zampetti crafted tailored coats and peacoats in burgundy and deep red wool. She added a pink lining to everything from clothing to shoes and bags — hoping to make the color a new signature of the house.

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