For the past few seasons, the design team at Sonia by Sonia Rykiel has designed and communicated the collection around a specific, semi-famous muse. This season it’s the Bloom Twins, the Ukrainian-born English “dark pop” music duo of twins sisters Anna and Sonia Kuprienko. (Langley Fox has been the face of the brand for the previous two seasons.) Incorporating a bit of grit to the label’s girly Parisian pedigree is clearly a focus. For pre-fall the lineup was urban and young at heart. Or just young — some of the looks were quite teenage. To that end, much of the collection was quite charming, if it’s still finding its identity alongside the main Sonia Rykiel line.
Bomber jackets came in mixes of nylon and velvet, and zipper details edged shirt collars and pencil skirts for a dose of punk to contrast all the pretty things, such as lace dresses and a bubblegum pink tie neck blouse. Velvet was key, worked on a pantsuit with a chunky patchwork sweater. It wouldn’t be Rykiel without stripes, shown classically on roomy pieces in black and army green, and more experimentally on ultralong, fitted, ribbed knit dresses in horizontal stripes.