“I looked at how women used to dress during World War II — they used to be hyperfeminine but they needed to be more masculine, in a way,” said Antonio Berardi. This tension between two contrasting forces emerged in his beautiful collection, which was focused on a twisted elegance. Tailored coats and bonded wool jackets were infused with a martial rigor that veered toward sensuality when the pieces disclosed voluminous back details, lending a couturelike appeal. Tiny buttons and metal rivets drew graphic lines, while geometric cutouts delivered chic sensuality. Silhouettes got fluid on draped cocktail and evening dresses, which also incorporated precious embroideries and see-through details. Everything conveyed a sense of true luxury in Berardi’s assured, skillful hands. In era of overexposure and self-promotion, he prefers to communicate through beautiful, impeccably produced creations.