The designer has an enduring fascination with science, the human brain and the body, and explored those themes in a collection packed with long, lean silhouettes and many a colorful flourish. He took a trip to Vienna’s famous psychiatric institution, Gugging, and spent some time with the artists who’ve taken up residence there. “Their art and drawing really inspired me,” said Kane, who also shot his latest campaign at Gugging.
The collection was packed with details, drawings and embellishments inspired by the patients’ work. The fat copper flowers that blossomed across an ankle-grazing skirt and a belted dress with a thick Peter Pan collar; the sunbursts that popped on a bag and a raincoat; the nudes and naïve, happy faces, some with uneven eyes and long noses, were all inspired by the artists — and some came straight from their original work.
Kane played a lot with layering for this charmingly haphazard collection, pairing a tiger jacquard coat with a long mint green skirt, matching pleated skirts with asymmetric hemlines with boxy jackets, and short, messily belted coats over long patterned skirts. He balanced those long and lean silhouettes with fat ostrich feather pompoms on lapels or skinny belts, or slipped chunky Crocs onto models’ feet. Yes, the Crocs are back, along with a more delicate lineup of short boots in black or lobster orange, and pointy heels with bondagelike ribbons at the ankle.