Huishan Zhang has been using pre-collections to expand his horizons and step into new territory. For pre-fall, he introduced knitwear and experimented with more casual materials.
Staying true to his delicate, ultrafeminine aesthetic, his knitted pieces, ranging from fitted V-neck sweaters to high-waisted knit trousers and pencil skirts, were embellished with pearls, a symbol of eternal love. Zhang further added neoprene items to his daywear, including cropped trousers in a palette of gray and pastel pink, and oversize, ruffled outerwear.
The rest of the collection dabbled in more familiar territory. Drawing inspiration from Fifties French bohemia, Zhang created a series of charming polka-dot pieces with lace inserts and frilled trims. A pair of loose, ruffled shorts and a collared maxidress were among the highlights, channeling the designer’s romantic, provincial references. They were executed in a cotton-poplin that created a more laid-back vibe.
Floral patterns also made their way into the eveningwear in a darker palette of black, red and white and more structured, silk-satin silhouettes. Even though dresses once again took center stage — particularly a red carpet-worthy, multilayered tulle and organza number — Zhang added a more rock ‘n’ roll dimension to his evening repertoire with embellished suits, printed pajamalike sets and bold, pleated trousers layered under the dresses.
A signature organza shift dress was paired with pink lace trousers that were embellished with pearls throughout, while a sequined skirt was paired with a cropped gabardine jacket appliquéd with white feathers.
The overload of embellishment could risk looking too heavy, but in Zhang’s hands, the mishmash of shapes and textures served to add touches of modernity to his signature femininity.