Today’s constant pressure to be young and trendy can manifest itself in very different situations.

A certain search for the cool factor pushed Alberta Ferretti’s pre-fall collection into dangerous territory. The designer’s decision to open her show with sweaters featuring intarsia with the name of each day of the week layered over shimmering lace column dresses resulted in an unsuccessful effort to be fun and playful. Same thing for the knitted pieces wrapped around the hips on models wearing sumptuous see-through gowns.

Alberta Ferretti is a brand known for its feminine elegance, its discreet, bourgeois sophistication that can often sparkle with touches of eccentricity. And she achieved this with lovely, romantic velvet dresses, as well as fluid frocks and skirts with botanical patterns and a mink fur coat with the floral intarsia. There was something sweet and delicate about them, with their comfortable chicness.

In the same runway show, the designer also unveiled her Limited Edition demi-couture effort. Here, she focused on monochromatic gowns, which spanned from floor-length satin and silk styles punctuated by sculptural pleated ruffles to transparent tulle designs decorated with embroideries and feathers. The mohair sweaters closed with crystal brooches, as well as the fur jackets and caplets that completed many of the looks and turned a bit updated. Despite the high-end craftsmanship on display, there was a certain lack of fantasy and creativity. And isn’t couture made for dreaming?

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