David Herbert Lawrence’s “Lady Chatterley’s Lover” and a Seventies Italian erotic movie are potentially risky inspirations for a designer — beware the line between sexy and trashy. But Antonio Marras would never be so on the nose. He knows the art of nuance. Despite his hot references, his pre-fall collection was all about a chic eccentricity. The sensuality that coursed through the lineup was carefully balanced by mannish accents.
Lady Chatterley’s British origins emerged in a selection of traditional English patterns, such as checks and tartan, all mixed and matched with contrasting leopard and botanical motifs. For example, Marras’ creative métissage gave an eclectic feel to a patchwork bomber and coat that were embroidered with Asian flowers. The indulgent, sophisticated femininity of multicolored lace dresses, and lightweight printed silk cut into fluid, languid dress silhouette was compliment by the edgy modernism of upcycled embroidered military parkas. Marras delivered another rich, expressive collection that articulated his vast imagination.