Downsizing doesn’t mean downgrading. For pre-fall, Goga Ashkenazi delivered a concise collection that looked more cohesive than past efforts. She picked up signature elements of Madame Madeleine Vionnet’s original style and blended them into a fresh and modern wardrobe. An evening gown with ribbons wrapping around the waist, as well as plissé details that lent a 3-D effect to the elegant styles, were beautiful. Likewise the velvet robe coats and handkerchief dresses infused with a loungewear feel.

Denim, which first appeared on the brand’s catwalk last September, was crafted for a draped daydress and a bias-cut fringed skirt — the names of their technical elements, like “fringe” or “bias cut,” were embroidered or flocked on the pieces for a smart, ironic effect. A pop touch was introduced via multicolor polka-dots — inspired by aerial pictures of ski slopes taken from chairlifts — which were embroidered on tulle, lace and mesh tops and minidresses with a girly feel. This collection marked a good step in the brand’s maturation process. Vionnet in February will return to show in Milan after seasons in Paris.

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