For pre-fall, Giambattista Valli aimed to dress his Valli girl as she transitions into a Valli woman, noting an amped-up daywear category and an emphasis on tailoring. “I wanted to give the collection a more grown-up attitude,” he said. “The other side of the Valli world is the very romantic side — the feminine, special-occasion side and there is a balance between the two. But I love to see our woman working. Whether she’s a lawyer or a journalist, she’s comfortable being a woman. Even the men’s tailoring still looks feminine.”

Valli’s double-breasted jackets and suiting — rendered in jacquard and paired with flared trousers — riffed on military styles with oversize gold buttons. One suit was covered in the GBV logo, a look Valli introduced for spring. “The logo still feels feminine, because it’s almost like a polka dot,” he said. Valli offered his girl a few chic tops to layer underneath, as in pussy-bow blouses and Victorian-inspired tops decorated with macramé lace appliqués. Prim silk maxidresses with bows and lilac floral prints kept the label’s signature romanticism alive, while a pair of leopard-printed striped mink coats embellished with rhinestones added a luxe, playful touch.