Gilles Mendel drew on his own summer experiences for pre-fall, channeling his annual trips to Spain and a vacation to Morocco into the collection, kicking up the hedonistic spirit by adding a Rolling Stones in Tangier moment to the Moroccan vibe. “That’s my rock ‘n’ roll fantasy,” said Mendel of a dusty rose fur chubby and a ruffled dress with caped shoulders in faded leopard print.
He assembled all his references — Spanish ruffles, mosaic guipure, Seventies glam rock and a mélange of rich colors against soft, faded tones — into a lovely collection that satisfied the J.Mendel customer’s appetite for round-the-clock glamour without overindulging. That’s saying something — it’s not easy to make a broadtail shirt look practical. When it came to furs, Mendel made them as light and transitional as possible. While a short ruffled dress with a cutout back would qualify for cocktail for most women, it’s the J.Mendel client’s idea of “high day” dressing.