Nili Lotan began designing her pre-fall collection in dark and muted tones, but after the 2016 U.S. presidential election, she switched gears a bit. “It’s too dark out there, too unstable. I think it’s time for color,” she said, referring to her palette of Army green, chartreuse and navy (don’t expect rainbows — this is Lotan, after all). “And who knows, if things get any worse, you might eventually start to see some pink.”
A military influence permeated the lineup, which juxtaposed hard-edged tomboy looks with others that skewed sensual and effortlessly feminine. In the latter category, Lotan updated her signature slipdresses in camouflage-printed silk chiffon and charmeuse with velvet spaghetti straps and raw, frayed hemlines, lest they start to look too precious. Her silhouettes felt familiar — oversize army jackets, shrunken bombers and one-piece flight-suits — but Lotan poured over the details with a close-to-home reference: her ex-husband was in the Israeli Air Force. “I created this flight suit based on the ones that used to live in my closet,” she said. Her version was decorated with zippers, and she also cut pants to match. Elsewhere, sheer velvet burnout blouses with laser-cut floral patterns tempered the army vibe with something a touch more girly.