A photo of a model wearing a simple, vintage track jacket over a ribbed shirt with a high-collar and loaded up with jewelry was the main reference for Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne’s pre-fall collection for Public School. They couldn’t remember where they found the shot or who photographed it “but it struck us as this really regal image,” Chow said.

The look had a strong positive impact on them, driving a heightened sense of drama and pronounced femininity that gave the label’s tomboy attitude more depth. Chow and Osborne got creative with traditionally girly treatments: There was a sweeping caftan of a lace maxidress and structured ruffles traced down the sides of khaki boy shorts and around some very cool, customized Jordans, which sadly were only for show. “We kind of rigged them up ourselves,” said Chow, noting that they’re trying to work out sneakers to be produced.

The high necklines and strong shoulders of the aristocratic silhouette were brought down to street level via bombers with exaggerated knit collars and strong shoulders, and fabrics were a mix of casual and polished — plaid, khaki and ripped denim versus lace and gold-and-black brocade. Experimenting with their feminine side worked out well for Chow and Osborne.

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