Chris Leba’s references always skew musical — grunge and punk, specifically — and for pre-fall he looked to none other than Nirvana. That was clear, given Kurt Cobain’s visage printed on T-shirts and sweatshirts and even hand-embroidered, in spectacular detail, on the back of a repurposed denim jacket accented with leopard-patterned mohair. (Interested buyers will have to act fast on the jackets, priced at $2,000, as they’re a limited edition of 10.)
Other winks at grunge included a crinkled silk slipdress with a built-in plaid shirt wrapped around the waist, hand-distressed denim and micro floral-printed dresses that recalled the Nineties. Cue the teen spirit.
More refined was a series of silk pajama separates and a new emphasis on tailoring, of which a camel cashmere-and-wool blend coat with exaggerated drop-shoulder details was a highlight. But Leba never fully abandons his punk roots: One oversize blazer was decorated with spiky silver studs at the cuffs. R13 loyalists will want the whole collection…in a heart-shaped box.