Don O’Neill’s pre-fall mood board featured the work of Dutch artist Albert Koetsier, known for his X-ray photography of flowers, animals and sea shells. Koetsier’s photographs worked their way into Theia’s cocktail and eveningwear in subtle ways — a few looks featured an X-ray-inspired tulip print, and one slinky sleeveless column gown, cut to the mid-calf, was decorated with contrasting lace embroidery to mimic the transparency and dimension of an X-ray.
Overall, O’Neill’s looks brimmed with the feminine frills that have become signature to Theia: voluminous cape and lantern sleeves, asymmetrical ruffles, cold-shoulder details and sparkle. A red slipdress with a cutaway hemline covered in 3-D floral appliqués exuded playful sensuality. More restrained — and no less chic — was O’Neill’s off-the-shoulder crepe jumpsuit with a Chantilly lace overlay.