Valentina Kova is going back to her roots of reinventing the classics. After five years in business, an e-commerce launch last week, and an Aspen shop set to open on Dec. 15, the designer has thought a lot about who the Valentina Kova woman is in this period of transition. The brand is known for its flowy, easy-to-wear designs that aren’t typically body-conscious. But in the spirit of newness, Kova introduced concepts she hasn’t worked with before — furs, structure, sexiness — but staying true to the brand’s core identity.

Highlights from this transitional collection included the introduction of velvet and satin crepe fabrics on new yet classic silhouettes. A velvet coat was languid and spoke to the Kova customer’s need for something slightly heavier leading into fall, and came with matching loose pants. Shirting in satin crepe was playful and quirky, with waist ties and zipper fronts. There was even something not typically seen in Kova’s collections: a bit of sex appeal. Cropped silhouettes and sheer overlays were sexy, easy and still provided coverage — though Kova’s patternmaker wouldn’t agree the multilayer pants were easy to make. Another highlight was the introduction of structure by way of a reversible double-face cashmere coat.

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