Zac Posen’s secondary label continues to expand its day-to-evening offer, this season focused on feminine separates with a slight 18th-century vibe — but taken to a casual street element. Posen is finding he has an increasingly diverse customer, age-wise, so he’s had to straddle a fine balance between delivering a fashion message and core sellers.
Modernizing 18th-century fashions, inclusive of the colors and interiors of the European Rococo era, was at the core of his latest collection. That isn’t to say the collection was full of excess embellishment or gowns that mirrored ornate walls. Rather, it was about finessing elements of, say, Marie Antoinette’s wardrobe and home into casual separates with a palette of pinks, rose, ivory and deep blues. Corseted techniques on the backs of tops, lace details resembling architecture, velvet trim, floral embroideries and even lattice-work weaving referencing the window panes of one of her properties are among the elements that elevated Posen’s casual daywear. The floral prints dominating the collection were interpreted from an archival interior print into different colors and applied to blouses, skirts and dresses for a sense of the ultrafeminine.
But it was the chambray and knit groupings that provided weight and a chic component to the clothes. Cold-shoulder knit tops came with playful ruffle detailing and mohair sweaters with a dip-dye effect. Chambray balanced out the brocades, and a plissé group was a great proposition for a new office look, especially a pair of cropped pants styled with a clingy sweater.