Barbara Bui’s pre-fall effort — while remaining true to her sexy, rock-tinged sensibility — veered toward grunge with more of a street-luxe, active edge. This was represented, for example, by a riveted parka lined with bright orange rabbit fur and tight black pants with punkish safety pins and zip details, a recurrent theme. Sporty looks included a black zip-fronted minidress with stripes in Liquorice Allsorts colors that were treated in a rough weave.

Subtle rockabilly details also found their way into the collection, defining the shape of certain shirts and suits. The glam factor came through in tailored pieces in gold silk or with graphic, tone-on-tone beaded embroideries intended to look like Bakelite. As for prints, Bui worked in animal motifs in bright shades of royal blue and pink with a blurred effect in the more fluid pieces in the collection.

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