Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s pre-fall presentation, held at the Hermès flagship on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, had the feeling of a Sunday brunch.

As cups of coffee and flutes of Champagne were passed around, guests settled on beige banquettes and watched models amble past in leather coats and silk twill dresses to a soundtrack from British band Hot Chip.

The designer kicked off with one of her classically understated creations, a blue-black V-neck dress set off by a silver cabochon belt, but it was worn with a pair of thigh-high boots with compensated soles that gave the look a “Belle de Jour” edge.

The boots came with everything from an overcoat in double-faced merino wool in cherry and Chinese blue, to a poison green calfskin parka with eyelets punched through the pockets. They both had an Eighties feel, as did a green-and-gray knit sweater-and-skirt set.

It felt like Vanhee-Cybulski was starting to show her true colors, after hovering at a reverential distance in her first two years as women’s artistic director of the brand. There were classic Hermès references, like an overstitched coat in the luxury house’s signature burnt-orange, but she also added some quirky touches, like a perfume bottle motif on off-white pajama pants.

As guests exited the show, Vanhee-Cybulski could be seen dancing with her models on the ground floor of the store. It was about time she let off a little steam.

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