Miuccia Prada often roots her Miu Miu collections in the Forties, and she spiked her pre-fall with Fifties varsity references and quirky embellishments.
A diverse cast of mannequins — so realistic you almost expected them to blink — ringed the walls of the Italian brand’s Paris boutique, which were painted by a graffiti artist into archetypical cityscapes: one room for day; the other for night.
The clothes were as vivid and charming as the presentation — a mash-up of butch shapes and daintier ones all zhuzhed up with demonstrative collars that played over shoulders and brooch-like embroideries of swallows, flowers, motorcycles and numbers.
Oversized varsity jackets were teamed with leather poodle skirts, while waist-cinched tweed coasts sheltered delicate, occasionally crinkled tea dresses. The fabrics — loud tweeds, spotted fur and colorful felt — gave the clothes their eccentric personality.
Not forgetting the funky footwear: two-tone brogues worn with bobby socks; Elmo-fur slides, and retro velvet platforms — the works studded with silver baubles. Prada wasn’t present at the event, but you could feel her hand at work on this little-sister label.