Julien Dossena explored new territories like office wear, combining — in his “generic redesign” of classics — technical materials like Japanese wools with traditional and featherweight Super 100 wools used in men’s tailoring. The focus was less on fashion, more on wearability. This city type still has a strong sense of style, though.

Variations on the suit included relaxed, long-cut gingham jackets worn with matching shorts and cotton shirts with hoods. A ribbed beige jersey dress with removable sleeves, twisting sensually on the body, was as snug as a sweater.

Neoclassics to keep included a perfectly cut, tailored camel coat with subtle design details such as inside-outside construction seams and a removable teddy-jacket collar lining the lapels.

Stripped of hardware save for signature eyelet details, a classic Seventies-style trench in an unexpected material sported Velcro closures.

Also in the technical camp, an oversizd silver cotton cagoule-dress — “a bit like what delivery guys on scooters wear” — was super cool, worn with minimalist wedge boots in silver and cognac leather.

The designer also used the house’s signature metal mesh as a contrast strap accent on pretty silk Liberty-print dresses with a Seventies vibe.

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