At a time when designers and brands are pressing pause and reevaluating their businesses, David Koma has been setting his own pace and emerging as one of the most resilient of the London bunch — perhaps a testament to his conviction of always taking the slow approach.
Koma found that during a year of lockdowns and ongoing restrictions, his team was able to band together, become stronger and find solace in work and creativity. Koma said lockdown gave everyone time to explore goals and ideas, including new categories and a sleek logo, VR campaign and, most recently, the launch of his brand’s first pre-fall collection.
Koma had previously produced three collections a year, and will now add pre-fall, a smaller range that will be divided into four retail drops.
“The experience of producing resort during the first lockdown, and the incredible response, gave us confidence that we can handle another collection,” the designer said over Zoom.
The collection struck a fine balance between Koma’s signature glamour, and the softness and comfort currently in demand.
Koma didn’t choose the conventional route to comfort by slapping his name on a tracksuit, or creating a pair of slippers. Comfort and at-home coziness came in the form of a feather-light wool coat; cashmere knits with just enough elastic to frame the body, and a glamorous — and comfortable — dress shirt featuring extra soft silk and subtle crystal embroidery.
“It’s important to stay true to yourself, and to produce pieces of the highest quality, especially in this moment,” the designer added.
That’s why Koma didn’t give up on dreaming, or indulging in his flair for beauty and all things sparkle.
Inspired by the elegance of equestrian style, and its associations with royalty and Princess Diana in particular, Koma sprinkled embroidered collared shirts and sleek tailoring into the range.
The young Lady Di’s playful, free spirit also came through in the eveningwear, including a taffeta mini number featuring dramatic sleeves; or a bejeweled draped midi dress in baby blue.
Elsewhere, a feather-trimmed chiffon gown and a little black dress paved with giant, embroidered crystals looked perfect for the Roaring Twenties mood that’s expected to return, post-pandemic. “We’re ready for it,” Koma said.