Nancy Mitford and her high-low brand of aristo, eccentric chic fired Erdem Moralioglu’s imagination for pre-fall 2021.
Just like the stylish Mitford sister, the designer mashed up country with city looks. He paired oversize, embroidered cashmere sweaters or slouchy mohair knits with floral dresses, pleated midi-skirts, and hammered satin, hand-embellished gowns.
Erdem adorned them all with bejeweled grosgrain belts, brooches and black stompy boots, for a morning romp through the woods after a long night of revelry.
Silhouettes were easy — some coats had arms that zipped off halfway, just in case customers want to wear long gloves — while colors were rich, including a long and breezy shirtdress in forest green cotton poplin, and an easy pajama suit in saffron.
The designer also switched things up this season to include a variety of sizes and body shapes, and he also worked with Liberty, reissuing an archive watercolor print on a cotton sundress, which was inspired by one of Mitford’s own dresses.
He also introduced a capsule of white cotton shirts, giving them names such as “The Romantic,” “The Tux” and “The Poet,” and build more denim into the collection.
Moralioglu, who has been releasing his collections as normal despite the constraints of lockdown, said he’s been thinking increasingly about the longevity of clothing, “and how each garment can be used in a different way.”
He said he’s designing for timelessness and endurance, and wants his customers to hold onto their clothing for far more than just a season.