Ever the provocateur with a maximalist hand, Philipp Plein said in his press notes accompanying the pre-fall collection that he wanted to highlight the “transformation process from maximizing to minimizing.”

Was he talking about charting a minimalist course for the brand? Not really.

The collection was Plein’s signature razzmatazz, heavy with Baroque prints reminiscent of Gianni Versace’s days of yore and bodycon pieces, such as sheer miniskirts in animalier prints and heart-shaped bandeau tops.

“Everybody believes I like to be maximalist, to be loud and very bold, this is what people expect from us,” the designer said over a Zoom call. “I’m pretty much the brand in my company, and I try to bring my ideas and personal style. Every collection tells a story about myself.”

During lockdown he and his girlfriend spent days clad in his oversize hoodies and sweatpants and part of the collection was surely designed to satisfy her needs for comfortable daily clothes.

Plein managed to counterbalance his heavy-handed approach with generous teddy bear coats in pop colors mingling with plain white tracksuits for his home-bound clientele and worked more relaxed silhouettes, including crepe jumpsuits with plunging V-necks and acid-washed denim versions. Athleisure and sport attire was referenced in leggings and crop tops printed with Plein’s signature skull motifs.

Now on a vegan diet, he also introduced faux fur for coats that had the words “I’d rather go naked than wear fur” at the back. But he’s not planning to go fur-free anytime soon — the category is still booming for Plein.

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