A young Princess Anne inspired the British country vibe that Lorenzo Serafini injected into his pre-fall collection for the Philosophy brand. Tartan fabrics, printed foulards and riding boots brought to mind the royal getaways as depicted on “The Crown.” “I looked at Princess Anne for her effortless, nonchalant style,” explained Serafini, who this season focused more on separates and daywear rather than dresses and evening attire.
The designer didn’t explore the theme literally, experimenting with patchworks and volumes to give of a bit rebellious, grungy twist to the equestrian inspiration. Denim pants were matched with silk foulard blouses, as well as with more mannish plaid shirts or girly striped sweaters featuring Philosophy’s signature ruffled details. Revised argyle motifs found their place next to a reworked tiger pattern, splashed on a raincoat and on a knitted set. Eco leather was introduced with a black frilled shirt tucked into fitted pants for a slightly 80s feel, and also employed for a minidress with puff sleeves.
Jersey fabrics offered Serafini the chance to design dresses that felt feminine and comfortable, while sartorial textiles, employed for streamlined outerwear pieces and pants cut in generous silhouettes, felt like palate cleansers.