The new year brings an abundance of newness for Marina Moscone, and the designer is feeling good. Pre-fall 2021 marks not only a change into the pre-season model (she will now solely show in January and June), but also a “reset” for the label aesthetically.
“The collection started from the study of a uniform. The fact that a uniform is a constant,” Moscone explained over Zoom, “I think my lockdown nostalgia had me knee-deep in photos of my mother and her childhood in South Africa in her school uniform. This is her,” the designer stated, pointing to a portrait of her mother as a young girl, donning her summer uniform of pleated dress, white shirt and tie.
Within the collection, beautiful “school-girl” tailored tunic dresses and topcoats — both in solid, preppy tones and new double-faced 100 percent virgin wool checks — were decorated with painted buttons or overlaid pleats with raw edges while an exploded knit patchwork rugby nodded to her grandfather, a former professional rugby player. Moscone wove familial details throughout the collection with little emblems that were stamped, patched and printed via screen. An image of Moscone’s father at age 9 and the South African Bird of Paradise flower, the words, “Joy” (her mother’s name) and “my honeysuckle rose,” (a childhood nickname for Moscone by her grandmother), and more could be seen atop familiar boxy knit T-shirts with contrast necklines worn over modern, pleated kilts. The motifs, too, adorned more artisanal attire: exquisite hand-quilted satin tops with colorful quilted fringe and line work, inspired by South African artist Gabrielle Kruger, and Moscone’s duvet coat: her “piece de resistance: the coat with all the details.”
“I think what I really loved is that a uniform is not disjointed, everything works together. It’s precise but not super serious; a little quirky, probably, because it’s seen through the lens of an innocent or naive child,” the designer expressed.
Further developing the idea, she accessorized the looks with “MM” monogrammed cashmere-silk knee-high socks and long gloves. The idea of uniformity tied Moscone’s signature tailoring and soft-draped offerings together nicely, like an iris toned satin frock or crinkled satin pajama-y look with mohair piping. Additionally, a new exploded recycled mink bag with exaggerated chain strap, chunky metal and ceramic baubles and two new shoes styles — a slide with heavy treads and clog mule with exaggerated high heel — rounded out the collection.