For his first outing, Leonard creative director Georg Lux pulled back from the sporty vibe favored by his predecessor, looking to London for inspiration, name-checking Cecil Beaton and the Biba era as influences.

Prints with an English feel — be it winter garden florals, tropical hothouse blooms, quasi-abstract paisley motifs or a touch of leopard — adorned lady-like silhouettes. The collection included a range of blouses, twinsets, fluid dresses in midi and maxi lengths; tailored separates; as well as jumpsuits and his take on the little black dress. Dévoré velvet, printed shot-silk taffeta and a double face lamé with a floral jacquard reverse, all made in France by silk specialist manufacturers, were added to the customary repertoire of silk and jersey.

New this season was an Art Deco-style circular logo, used on buttons, on a monogram-style knit and as buckles for accessories; there also was the new “Champs-Élysées” flap bag. And while not strictly announcing the return of the brand’s men’s wear line, a pajama set shown on a male model made a case for the unisex charm of the floral silk shirt.

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