Let’s give credit where credit is due: When Nicola Brognano first introduced his early Aughts-inspired vision for Blumarine two years ago, not everyone was ready to embark on the plethora of cropped knits, very low-waisted pants and miniskirts he sent down the runway. Now, it’s undeniable that the designer foresaw the return of the Y2K aesthetic on the catwalks and, even before that, on social media.
Now that he has cemented these codes, Brognano is looking to expand his lexicon to reach a wider audience and welcome a more mature woman.
For pre-fall, the designer tempered the more girly aspects of his fashion with a refreshing dose of solid colors, including the introduction of black into the pink color palette, as well as some longer hems. The result was still very Blumarine, but slightly less teenaged-feeling.
“This is an evolutionary step. It’s part of an important journey, because it’s right to have a signature style but I need to evolve it, otherwise I risk to bore myself and the others,” said Brognano, adding that if previously he addressed “a girl that used to dream in her bedroom, now she’s grown up and is stepping outside in the real world.”
Dresses and knitwear still played a key role in telegraphing Blumarine’s sexiness and unapologetic attitude. Crafted in jersey, stretchy georgette or ribbed wool, body-hugging frocks came with draping and asymmetry, as well as in mid-length proportions. Knitwear hinged on the brand’s signature Bluvi cardigan with furry collars, spanning from micro versions to elongated ones, often substituting coats.
As for outerwear, cruelty-free furs in cashmere with animal-printed linings oozed sassiness, while reversible shearling coats made for a more daily item that, along with cargo pants and denim separates, could live even outside an Instagram post or music video clip.