Since taking the creative helm of Diesel last year, Glenn Martens has successfully refocused the brand on its core values, bringing back the cool factor of the denim specialist.
The pre-fall collection was no exception, with the Belgian designer continuing to inject frisky energy in a range that celebrated the sexy, unconventional and bold take on fashion Diesel is known for.
Referencing the brand itself and the early Aughts’ aesthetics, Martens reworked denim essentials, military patterns, car-racing references and psychedelic prints, playing with asymmetric silhouettes and mixing shrunken proportions with generous volumes.
In its most immediate expression, the back-to-the-roots approach manifested via a low-waisted pair of jeans and a denim miniskirt, respectively styled with a body-hugging knit and a reversible puffer jacket, which were both rendered in fire red and spelled out the Diesel name loud and clear.
But Martens’ experimental attitude and knack for silhouette manipulation made things more intriguing, as seen in quilted denim pieces with pink camouflage inserts; versatile jeans morphing their fit from straight to flared via double zippers on the sides, and extra-feminine asymmetric skirts and draped dresses in jersey that were punctuated by the metallic D logo first introduced in the ’80s.
Reinforcing the commitment to sustainability already proved in the spring 2022 lineup, Martens also included upcycled items, such as a silver Canadian tuxedo coated with layers of deadstock material to create a peeling, distressed effect. Pieces of the Diesel Library line — the pinnacle of the company’s sustainable effort applied to denim production — were additionally integrated in the range.
In rediscovering and exalting its real nature, the brand is also cleverly redefining the scope of its “only the brave” mantra, proving that retooling its processes for the planet’s sake takes a fair amount of courage, too.