Gabriele Colangelo can’t stay away from art for too long. After a season’s break from arty references, the designer returned to one of his passions and looked at the work of Franco Guerzoni to convey a tactile feel in his polished aesthetic.
The peeled effect of Guerzoni’s textured artworks inspired a graphic print splashed over cotton separates and punctuated with fringes for a 3D effect, as well as the devoré velvet fabric of a strapless dress that gradually faded into see-through chiffon. With its feminine appeal, the frock made for a refreshing novelty that tempered the precise tailoring Colangelo is known for.
New were also the shorter proportions that counterbalanced the designer’s signature elongated silhouettes and the utilitarian spirit he subtly embraced by padding trenchcoats and introducing technical fabrics in the lining of luxe outerwear.
Extra-long belts swishing from the looks restated Colangelo’s penchant for twisting fabrics, which culminated in the sturdy knot draping the back of a minimal dress. Pleats further added movement and elevated asymmetric lean skirts and dresses.
Double-breasted jackets with buttons shifted to the side and a minimal monochrome dress in vibrant orange that stood out from Colangelo’s distinctive palette of camel, gray, burgundy and butter colors exemplified the bolder direction the designer took this season.