Alberto Caliri is a man on a mission. He has been assigned the tough task of shepherding the Missoni brand from the tenure of Angela Missoni into the hands of a new creative director, who the company is expected to reveal after the fall 2022 show in February.
Caliri, Angela Missoni’s right hand for years, has taken the mission seriously and thanks to his humble yet creative approach, in only a few seasons has been able to refresh the label’s image.
For pre-fall, the designer stressed some of the ideas he introduced in last September’s show. In particular, Caliri continued to simplify the look, which, after years of multiple layering and heavy styling, is returning to the authentically charming spontaneity Tai and Rosita Missoni injected into the house they founded.
Caliri approached the new collection by combining a more bourgeois Milanese look with the coolness of ’90s New York women. The result was a juxtaposition of contrasting elements, such as precious roomy coats worn with chenille tracksuits with cropped tops or short bombers with a street vibe paired with ample pants in luxurious wools.
Generally setting aside graphic bold patterns, Caliri instead opted for arty jacquard motifs for the beautiful sweaters, created shiny underpinnings to layer under them and introduced relaxed knitted suits that mixed comfort and sophistication.
The evening offering sparkled with sequined yarns used to create net-like dresses and tops, worked in gemstone-inspired tones and infused with a modern sensuality.
Caliri will leave the helm of the Missoni women’s design division after February’s show but his short tenure has left a clear impact on the label.