In such a transitional time for the company, with Marco Gobbetti’s takeover as chief executive officer around the corner, the Salvatore Ferragamo design team sought stability in the pillars defining the brand.
Leather, color and the Gancini logo are part of the vocabulary the label uses to communicate its identity and all were present in the pre-fall 2022 collection. Yet the seasonal message was diluted by the coexistence of different themes.
Stretching from resort attire to winter looks, and from activewear to sharp tailoring, it’s an approach that will surely enable the brand to embrace a wider spectrum of tastes, ages and needs, but somewhat to the detriment of an overall cohesiveness.
Overall, the scale tipped in favor of the more urban proposals: the precise construction of monochrome suits and wool coats as well as the graphic lines of a black, textured wrap skirt juxtaposed with the fluidity of a silk shirt with dropped shoulders.
A genderless look matching a colorful mohair knit with leather pants stood out for its refreshing, subtle edginess: Although leather bomber jackets and pants appeared elsewhere in the lineup, too, this stylistic storyline definitely deserved to be further explored.
On the opposite end of the range, a palm print by French artist Julien Colombier was splashed on caftans and tracksuits while solid-colored swimwear was offered in a rusty shade. The highlight of this summery section was a chic, cream silk shirt embellished with a graphic motif interweaving the Gancini logo that was styled with matching shorts in broderie anglaise.
Accessories additionally restated iconic symbols of the brand, including the Vara bow, but offered also ground for sustainable experimentation, as seen in an interwoven handbag style and a fully sustainable eyewear style that will be available in eight colors.