The 28th look of Jil Sander’s pre-fall collection was a charming white dress that stood out for its simple silhouette that balanced a sporty feel in the wavy ajour junctions on the silk bustier, craftsmanship in the embroidered asymmetric skirt and its overall sense of effortless femininity — three key elements Lucie and Luke Meier poured into their latest effort.
Dangling from the neck of the model, a gold pendant in the shape of a zodiac symbol teased a new line of accessories.
“I’m a Virgo, which is why she’s wearing that necklace,” said Luke Meier during a Zoom call, addressing the astrological charm. Do the Meiers believe in stars and consult horoscopes? “Lucie more than I,” said the designer, while his wife next to him added she prefers “to read it afterward, actually. When it’s already past and I can interpret it and say, ‘Yeah, this happened,’ rather than having huge expectations.”
Parallels can be drawn between this approach and the designers’ in fashion: the couple follows its own creative path and instincts, without being influenced by trends or seasonal swings. When they look back at their work, the duo often finds out that the (style) stars have aligned in their favor.
Their pre-fall collection confirmed it, adding to the momentum the Meiers have experienced this year. The lineup was marked by a combination of activewear references and a couture attitude, as well as lively floral prints and vibrant colors.
Big volumes and fluid, lean silhouettes defined the main proportions. The former included round-shouldered shirts, capes and jackets, as well as ample Bermuda shorts and girly print dresses with puffed pleated sleeves and balloon skirts. The latter encompassed floral jersey frocks, silk slipdresses with scalloped necklines and a white plastron shirtdress with a polished nonchalance.
Both supple and papery leather marked sporty outerwear, ranging from a sky blue down jacket to a large mustard cape, while the brand’s minimal tailoring was given a twist in a narrow plum colored suit with exaggerated lapels and in a series of sleeveless, collarless options with a belt closure.
Knitwear also pointed to a leaner, body-con direction in long dresses and ribbed cardigans, which amplified the collection’s tactile feel. Along with silk, cashmere, wool, recycled nylon and viscose, shearling was introduced in reversible coats and vests that were the standouts in the outerwear.