Comfort, simplicity and ease are three key words that guide creative director Filippo Grazioli in his mission to rejuvenate the Missoni codes and make them more appealing to a new generation of customers.
If his first show focused on a sexy look and a simplified approach to colors — with a palette that mainly hinged on black-and-white, primary shades of yellow, blue and pink, as well as shimmering silver — for pre-fall Grazioli concentrated on shapes that could serve different bodies and occasions. His main focus in this quest for versatility was knitwear, which best speaks of the brand’s roots and prowess and which Grazioli revisited in different lengths, volumes and patterns.
In addition to building on the graphic black-and-white motif of his runway debut via pencil skirts with plunging side-slits, cozy coats and a textured zippered sweater that was particularly eccentric, the designer conjured a plethora of knits spanning from figure-hugging dresses and turtlenecks to fluid long cardigans and cozy cropped options.
Playing with Missoni’s signature zigzag motif or stripes, Grazioli imbued a sense of lightness and youthfulness in recognizable codes of the house via sparkly effects given by sequins or Lurex threads; fuzzy textures or by rendering looks in solid colors, ranging from bright red to pastel-hued outfits that were the highlights of the lineup. A solitary look, a reinterpretation of denim à-la-Missoni embellished with the flame pattern, was also an interesting development that deserved more exploration.
Although filled with covetable separates and succeeding in Grazioli’s intention to offer easy-to-approach and unfussy pieces, the collection overall seemed less cohesive compared to the designer’s previous efforts.