Lorenzo Serafini seems to have found his sweet spot for Philosophy at the crossroads of a romantic spirit and noir seductiveness.
For pre-fall 2023, he continued to explore an unapologetic attitude and to focus on the enhancement of the body through shrunken silhouettes, stretch fabrics and a mostly dark color palette. It’s a more daring journey he embarked on this year and one that has refreshingly shaken up the youthful and feminine world of the brand, layering it with a generous dose of self-confidence.
This time, Serafini worked with elongated and sleek lines to deliver a full wardrobe, ranging from a new take on sartorial suits — one that comes with a cropped blazer to wrap around the chest — to laced dresses stretching over the body; see-through gowns with cutouts, or more demure, second-skin midi frocks in black tulle or velvet with contrasting Peter Pan-collars.
The designer credited the fabrics for “exalting body shapes without constraining them” and enabling a woman “to enjoy both her own body and dress” in the process.
Punkish elements added a cheeky touch to the lineup, as seen in a leopard pattern popping up via cropped jackets; a baby-doll dress crafted from a mix of tulle and lace and layered over flared pants, as well as a print of a bold lettering stating “I love you” that was splashed over shirtdresses and miniskirts. Without citing an actual reference, Serafini pointed to the “Pistol” miniseries as a slight inspiration for these eye-catching additions.
Flanking these graphic effects, Serafini played with textures to amplify the tactile quality of the collection. Cue fuzzy lilac cardigans and bralettes adorned with crystals, an eco fur with Lurex threads, the cascade of sequins covering pants and a statement draped gown as well as vinyl flowers and accessories that punctuated the convincing and cool lineup.