Charles de Vilmorin’s pre-fall collection for Rochas was a tale of two women.
The designer was inspired by the French film “Les soeurs fâchées” (“Me and My Sister”), which stars Isabelle Huppert and Catherine Frot as radically different siblings Martine, an aloof Parisian bourgeoise, and Louise, an irrepressibly cheery out-of-towner.
“I liked this clash of cultures,” de Vilmorin said. “I tried to convey that idea through the choice of fabrics and colors, mixing some sophisticated materials with the occasional print.”
A black velvet tube dress and a slim coat in monochrome checked wool were all sophisticated restraint, signaling a new direction for the designer, who has made bold prints and exaggerated volumes a signature of his tenure. “Even in the styling of the look book, I wanted something more precise and more clean,” he said.
A gold brocade skirt, worn with snakeskin boots, telegraphed a more fun-loving approach to fashion, as did a saffron satin dress with matching vinyl boots. Since taking over as creative director of Rochas almost two years ago, de Vilmorin has cycled through several identities, from his punky debut collection to his anemic showing for spring.
He appears to have settled on a compromise. “I’m starting to grasp the Rochas woman and for me she’s really about that mix,” he said. “That’s what I want to continue to explore and to experiment with over the next few collections.” Here’s hoping that sharper focus will translate to the runway next season.