Since assuming command at Azzaro, designer Vanessa Seward has cemented the house’s reputation for a certain type of retro glamour updated for cool “It” girls of the present. Last month, even French first lady Carla Bruni-Sarkozy donned a fetching Azzaro gown for an official engagement, showing the house is gaining traction beyond the Hollywood red carpet. For resort, Seward delivered a sexy lineup of dresses, many with intricate pleating details, which should please her clients perfectly. Seward, who in the recent past has teamed up with guest designers from Eugenie Niarchos to Jemima Khan, called on the talents of Paris graphic designers Florence Deygas and Olivier Kuntzel to give her dresses some extra pizzazz. The duo devised a cute heart print that made its way onto a flirty sundress and two make-believe characters called Bear and Doll, which decorated scarves and the lining of trenchcoats. They were fun. But it was Seward’s sinuous gowns with mesh jewelry incorporated into the neckline, a gold-fringed jacket with embedded crystals and short flirty gold mesh that showed Seward testing new waters while staying true to Azzaro’s sultry DNA.

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