“Pre-collections are fun because you get to experiment,” said Jack McCollough during a presentation of Proenza Schouler’s resort collection. That’s the spirit! McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have taken to viewing pre-collections as a link between runway seasons in which they can incorporate elements from their most recent show while testing new silhouettes for the next time. The softness and layering that made their fall collection so breathtaking stayed, reworked in accordion sunburst pleated skirts and dresses done in neutrals and black and white. The skirts were constructed of squares of fabric, which the designers spliced together to create graphic patterns. The result was graceful fluidity that retained Proenza Schouler’s signature edge. The skirts were paired with rounded jackets — cropped and midlength — and satin back crepe T-shirts that created beautiful movement, and accessorized with chunky sandals done with the hardware from the PS11 bag. As for the shapes McCollough and Hernandez are flirting with for spring, there were cropped tops and high-waisted skirts shown as dresses that looked like two pieces, and easy chemise dresses hand-embroidered with zigzag beading. They also showed two chic, curve-hugging dresses that teased the designers’ all-new challenge for spring: draping. “We’ve never done it before,” said Hernandez. Judging by their first examples, the learning curve isn’t so steep.

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