Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley’s fall debut for Marc by Marc Jacobs — which remains the name of the collection; MBMJ is just a logo — was an impactful delineation of who the Marc by Marc girl is: fierce and in-your-face. But she’s feminine, too, a side they drew out for resort with dual references centered around space. First was Brit Marling, whom Bartley described as “tough and confident but with a floaty otherworldy-ness” in the film “Another Earth;” second was Mercury 13, a group of 13 American women trained as astronauts in the late Sixties, though they never went to space, leaving Bartley wondering if “they had to go back to the kitchen?”
To show the strong side of classic womanly shapes, Fifties floral dresses with flared skirts came with jarring black suspenders and harness effects. There were cool, cleaner variations on the silhouette in nylon and cotton with military details. More crisp and spare was the range of tailored shirting, some done with outer-space motifs by illustrator Zoe Taylor that were subtle and ethereal “so it’s not like you’re wearing planets,” as Bartley said. Taylor’s illustrations, as well as a “Don’t Panic” graphics by Fergus Purcell of Palace Skateboards, stood out on totes and mini bags in the ever-growing range of handbags.