Naming his resort collection “Moor’s Chorus,” Hussein Chalayan developed a series of patterns inspired by the architecture and culture of southern Spain and North Africa — and by the idea of the “Moorish gaze,” when secret areas are viewed through small apertures. He worked the far-flung idea into fluid silk dresses in prints inspired by the geometric pattern of trees and even a an irrigation system, while lightweight cotton dresses featured motifs of zucchini flowers — as seen through a keyhole.

There was much more to the collection than prints and patterns: Dresses in strong solids such as cornflower blue and bright red appeared to be sculpted at the neck or around the bodice thanks to a special bonding technique.

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