Alexander McQueen was in full bloom for resort as creative director Sarah Burton planted a garden of prints and patterns based on sweet pea, lily of the valley, begonia and hollyhock. “It’s the very opposite of last season’s darkness, and all about growth, freshness, springtime — and optimism,” said Burton, who interspersed her flowers with jewels and finishes with a precious heirloom feel.
She scattered a sweet-pea print across a white leather coat and a begonia pattern over a black Carmen Miranda-style organdy dress with floppy tiered ruffles at the front. “I wanted the dress to be like something found in an old chest, worn and loved,” said Burton, who paired the dress with an army green, military-style peplum jacket. She also worked a cross-stitch pattern onto short printed leather dresses; made a coat from a patchwork of cotton tweed, snakeskin and leather, and crafted suits from a tweed fabric arranged in a checkerboard pattern. Long tulle dresses were embroidered with hollyhock for a “Charles Rennie Mackintosh” feel.
Bejeweled belt buckles, brooches and chunky, burnished gold charm bracelets on models’ wrists added a dash of glitter — as did a cable-knit sweater festooned with embroidered brooches. And while this lavish collection was all about adornment, there were stricter, simpler pieces, too, in the form of semi-corseted denim and white ribbed-knit dresses.