Christopher Bailey spun piles of lace, macramé and gold ribbon into a knockout resort collection that was heavy on texture and contrast. The new, stiffer and more structured silhouettes were a departure from the embellished bohemian ones of recent seasons, their fitted, feminine lines channeling classic society looks but with a modern point of view. Burberry’s chief creative and chief executive officer billed the season’s offer as “one-piece” dressing and it was heavy on statement dresses and coats.
The former were crafted from a combination of white Nottingham lace and black macramé flowers, cornflower blue or salmon pink Chantilly lace, and structured metallic gold ribbon that resembled military braiding. As Burberry ups its presence on the red carpet, gowns have begun to play a bigger role. Among the standouts was a slim one with a high waist, done in black mesh with flecks of metallic silver embroidery.
Coats were dramatic with clean lines. At times, they mimicked the dresses’ textures, as in one white haircalf design that was laser cut to resemble lace. A dark trench with a full, sculpted skirt was embroidered with thick cotton strips in an Azteclike geometric pattern, while a navy blue, double-breasted style was made from coated felt with macramé lace panels running down the side. Another, cozier number was done in lamb shearling with a zebra pattern, part of an animal-print theme that also ran through the collection.