For David Koma’s debut resort collection, the designer said he wanted to look at athleticism, “but in a really elegant way.” He achieved that with Sixties-style, high-waist swimsuits and the colors and textures of empty swimming pools among his inspirations. Koma — who is also artistic director for women’s wear at Paris’ Mugler label — worked up designs that skimmed the body, at times with sculptural flourishes.
One body-hugging jersey maxidress had a graphic, sporty neckline that evoked a reworked swimsuit, while a calf-length tank dress with a deep V-neck was embellished with a shimmering mesh of dégradé shades of green and yellow mirrored stones, a nod to a pool’s mosaic floor.
While the silhouettes walked a more relaxed line than Koma’s more graphic spring and fall collections, there were still some directional touches. They came through in the bold ruffled leather bodice that enlivened a black tank dress, and a minidress inset with panels of leather lacing that wound around the body.