Having brought sexy back for fall, Issa’s resort lineup was more about “evolving the brand pillars” — and seeing how far he could push them — said creative director Jamie O’Hare. Cue a structural overhaul of the brand’s signature classic wrap dress, with the addition of shoulder pads and an abstract snakeskin print, which made for an instant injection of attitude. The asymmetry from O’Hare’s fall outing carried forward in this collection’s shoulders, hemlines and bias-twist waists, while cutouts upped the drama factor as in a ruched maxi with slashed neckline and bare back.
Embroidery was another keystone — lifting necklines and snaking around the twisted hemline of a printed trouser. The caftan made an appearance with engineered prints, but the new Issa woman was as much a city slicker as boho babe, and there were also quieter and more urbane pieces, such as a white obi-belt jumpsuit with a slight crop and a black backless all-in-one.