Mary Katrantzou wanted to evoke a sense of “ease” with her resort collection, in contrast to the more elaborate designs that she creates for spring or fall. “I wanted it to be a bit effortless,” she said.
The designs still stood out for Katrantzou’s striking way with color and print, but the shapes had a feminine fluidity. Among them were mini- and maxidresses in deep pink or bright white, their blocks of color sliced with sections of sun-ray pleats in rainbow stripes, which accordioned out as the garments moved.
Katrantzou also melded together Op-Art stripes and rich floral imagery from early-20th-century flower seed packets, making for a modern yet romantic effect. The designer played with that idea on a floor-length crepe de chine dress with a high, ruffled georgette collar, and skirts done in panels of pleated green and black stripes, while a contrasting yellow bodice was printed with blooming tulips from the vintage seed packets.
And with an eye toward working more day elements into her lineup, there were pretty cotton broderie anglaise dresses inset with panels of dense floral prints, a lower-key contrast to the powerful prints.